Kamchatka can be considered the big round up of archeological dig sites. Just getting here is so challenging that very few people ever get to see this place. Today I got a taste of why that is true. After a night hold up along the coast, we finished our boat ride to Kultuk. The vesdehod disembarked and with another round of packing and rearranging we were on our way.
I guess that the vesdehod can hold eight comfortably; we were ten plus a driver – that's eleven. Of course we had our gear to pack onto the tank and some food supplies. We left Irina and one of her students behind due to lack of space. They kept the bulk of the food and we took about four days supplies with us.
After an hour or so of repacking we boarded the military green mechanical bull and drove off into the wilderness. The vehicle starts off with a loud clatter and settles into a bone-rattling roar. It whines as it takes on hills and accelerates on straight-aways – which are rare. The machine seems to eat tall grass, shrubs and even small trees. I decided to start the trip on the top of the vesdehod. I was treated to a series of duck and cover maneuvers that would make Bruce Lee proud. With a death grip on the small railing that is atop the beast, I clung on through pitches and dives that had us leaving our seats on several occasions. Along with holding on to the rail and trying to stay in a somewhat seated position, you must also watch out for branches that hang over the road. The basic procedure is to drop forward as low as possible to let the branch pass over you. Although, I will say that with one person on each side, I was more likely to dive head first behind them for cover. We used our hands to protect our faces and once or twice when there was no change of speed in sight, I put my feet up in front of me to keep from taking rather sizable branches to the head. This was for the most part, pretty effective, however there were times when you just got beat.
Every now and again, you could exhale and take a look around at the magnificent scenery. Mountains with snow patches and volcanoes rimmed the landscape. Lush grasses and beautiful flowering plants were in every direction. Then suddenly without warning, there would be a change in elevation that would leave you bouncing from the tank and grabbing for any available handhold.
After some time a couple of the students who are traveling with us wanted to sit on top of the vesdehod. So, having escaped bloodshed, I decided that I had sufficiently tested my luck and I would squeeze into the front passenger seat with another person and watch from the relative comfort of the cab. The driver was diligently watching every move and used three levers to direct the green monster. Try as I might, I couldn't figure out what any of the levers actually did. There was forward and back for sure and then there was this sort of side-to-side slide maneuver that could be attained with the levers. You were sure we were turning because every turn was accompanied by a grinding noise and sudden jolts in various directions.
I also had the opportunity to join some folks in the cargo area of the vesdehod along with a wall of baggage and supplies. It seemed sufficiently safe there with no branches lunging at us, until we came to a hill of over 40 degrees in pitch and all the baggage came down on top of us. We were essentially pinned and unable to move. Greg came to check on us; once he saw we were okay I think he found it rather amusing.
We arrived at our destination and spent some time searching for an appropriate campsite. We needed fresh water nearby and relative safety from tsunamis. We located a good spot and started a fire for dinner, since it had been about twelve hours since breakfast and everyone was really hungry. There were all the things a campsite needs – area for cooking, tents sites, latrine location and plenty of trails left behind by bears (along with their scat).
Most importantly to me there was a satellite connection for the first time in five days – Yippee! It was nice to get e-mails from many of you and good to let you all know that I was alive (although my life had flashed past once or twice) and we were at our first field camp. That said, I need to get some sleep – work awaits us in the morning. So as the mosquito coil winds down in my tent and I hear the struggling fitful beats of the last mosquito of the night, I wish you a spectacular day.
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