First Impressions of Toolik

    My field stay at Toolik Research Station starts today. I am struck by three things: the remoteness, the abundance of plants, and the light.

    I've been to many places to camp and hike. Even when in a wide open space, a town seemed to be just around the corner. Eight hours of driving were needed to get from Fairbanks to Toolik, and there was not much in between. We passed some work camps, a handful of small stores and visitor centers, and pump stations for the Alaskan pipeline. No traffic lights, shopping centers, or billboards were seen on the drive. No town is around the corner. Snow capped mountains of the Brooks Range line the southern horizon. Open fields are all around. Toolik is remote, and beautiful in its isolation.

    Driving to Toolik
    Driving the Dalton Highway

    Before arriving at Toolik, when I heard the word "tundra", I imagined a cold, grey, barren landscape. I was very wrong.

    A boardwalk leads out from camp, around the lake, and through the tundra field. Walking along, I noticed that the ground is full of plants and bushes. Wildflowers are abundant. There is little ground left uncovered by vegetation. Insects, butterflies, squirrels, and birds are plentiful. The tundra is rich and plentiful. There are many flowers to identify and birds to count. I'm happy that I brought along guide books.

    Tundra and boardwalk
    Tundra View

    Tundra Flowers
    Tundra Flowers

    Before arriving in the Arctic, I knew that the sun would be shining for most of the day. What strikes me today, my first day at Toolik, is the quality of the light. The sun is high in the sky, even late at night. At 9:30 PM, the sun is still at a 2:00 position in the sky. Cloud coverage is light and the sun is bright. The light, however, has a different quality. I'm not right away sure how to describe the light. California afternoons really can take on a golden glow. My first impression is that the light is softer. I imagine that someone has quantified the sunlight at Toolik. I'll keep an eye out for this research.

    Evening Light on Lake
    Evening Light on Lake Toolik

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